行程:
Melbourne - Ballarat - Linton - Lake Bolac - Hamilton - Dartmoor - Mt Gambier - Beachport - Robe - Kingston SE - Tailem Bend - Murray Bridge - Adelaide - Victor Harbor - Goolwa - Hindmarsh Island - Murray Bridge - Keith - Bordertown - Nhill - Horsham - Ararat - (Ballarat) - Melbourne
(点小图看大图)
老规矩,一辆车,八点半出门,走老路,Western Hwy 转 Glenelg Hwy,在 Ballarat 城南停了一下买了点新鲜面包,午饭时间到达 Hamilton,途经 Grampians 南端(Dunkeld)时遇上了像雾一样的毛毛雨。
出 Hamilton 后没走老路而是上了C187,奔向 Dartmoor。老路是指三年多前去南澳 Mt Gambier 时走的B160(经 Casterton)。
(8164) Dartmoor 并不在A1路边,进这个小地方是因为要方便一下,倒是值得。路边的一排树变成了木雕:
![](http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/46281/2487877040101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8165)
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/44756/2081498350101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8173)街对面绿地里的老树变得更美
![](http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/32207/2023539380101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7631)
![](http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/45466/2703577130101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8174) 一进 Mt Gambier,顺路就停在了 Umpherston Sinkhole,平地上的一个大坑,被先人改成了花园:
![](http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/37632/2147563600101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8183)
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/46088/2405886020101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8196)地坑边上是木材加工厂,从 google 地图上看,厂区里还有个地坑,在厂外就看看古董卡车吧:
![](http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/10639/2515981810101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8198)Mt Gambier 著名的是蓝湖(Blue Lake),不过那湖水并不是一年四季都是蓝色。这不,冬天的蓝湖:
![](http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/3130/2731911140101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(0491) 这是三年多前去时拍的秋天的蓝湖:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/3934/2696089240101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8213) 蓝湖的邻居是绿湖(Green Lake),不过这时也不绿了:
![](http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/45671/2284427110101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(0503) 三年多前去时拍的秋天的绿湖:
![](http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/46329/2480602350101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8215) 在 Mt Gambier 住了一夜,第二天出发看到这个:
![](http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/46602/2698491950101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8227) 北上的路上遇到 Tantanoola Caves,山洞还没开门,只好沿着边上的小道走走,向东看:
![](http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/36450/2946416790101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8228) 向西看,这里像个开了口子的大盆:
![](http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/42498/2571713370101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7682) 到了 Beachport,不是季节,打渔抓虾的渔船都在岸上休息:
![](http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/26093/2175112320101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8230) 重访 Beachport 的石灰岩海岸:
![](http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/47458/2602750540101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8233)
![](http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/21800/2044137360101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8238) 这个洞,站在下面正好可以把脑袋钻过去,留了不少地上钻出一个脑袋的片片,那些是不能贴的:
![](http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/45305/2881775830101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8252) 中午时分到达 Robe,第二个过夜之处,从后门进了旅馆房间,从前门望出去就是这景:
![](http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/44342/2337293890101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8253) 旅馆房间的前门:
![](http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/47542/2923921100101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7747) 这旅馆的好处是房间里有厨房,是此行中性价比最好的一处:
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/45192/2209546150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7765) 午饭后在 Robe 周围转转,沙滩上有不少海带之类的干海货,所以看上去不那么好看:
![](http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/46457/2075485470101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7767) 但看不到“杂物”的地方很养眼:
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/47901/2794844670101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8257) 这里还是石灰岩海岸,悬崖看上去随时会掉下一块:
![](http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/45304/2563777560101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8258) 这一块给海水修理得像个鳄鱼:
![](http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/45778/2634702070101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8262) Robe 的广告照:
![](http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/46815/2566525610101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8264) 通往这海滩的路没有通常的禁止牌,可以开车上去:
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/17220/2768074700101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8265)
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/47774/2680777040101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8263) 咱受惑也开车上去了,不想此地不像上次 Sandy Point 的海滩,沙子又粗又干,转弯时车子不动了,到底是 2WD,赶紧借人力倒车,然后低档撤退,好在没盲目加油门,不然这坑可就大了:
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/44102/2077408190101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8271) 第三天接着北上,路过 Kingston SE,是不是怕和别的 Kingston 搞混了所以加了个 SE(东南)?这里号称龙虾的首都(Mt Gambier 南边的 Port Macdonnell 也号称是龙虾之都),但冬天不对季,此地一片静悄悄:
![](http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/44657/2964423390101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8277) 见不着真的就看看人造的吧,特大号的:
![](http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/47794/2336599660101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8280) 离开 Kingston SE,一路沿着和澳州第一大河 Murray 河相通的 Lake Alexandrina 的南段走,此湖水和海水之间只隔一道沙丘,
是 Pelican (鹈鹕)的天堂,咱就停车按路标去看 Pelican:
![](http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/44171/2263182050101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8284) 远处那小绿棚就是藏人的地方:
![](http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/12159/2056932430101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7831) 鹈鹕都在远远的沙岛上休息:
![](http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/9931/2271814000101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7871) 忽然间,一拨一拨的鹈鹕先后起飞,他们在咱们的头顶上空盘旋,像是在编队,也像是在寻找合适的气流,等上升到了一定高度,他们或成人字,或成斜一字向北飞去:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/44756/2565137770101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7872)
![](http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/44386/2754227340101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7878)
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/44254/2791872390101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7879)
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/47453/2781027960101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8287) 这是停车处的一块“石头”,看似混在沙中用手一扒拉就出来的贝壳,已经和沙结合在一起变成了一体:
![](http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/44240/2345659810101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8289) Tailem Bend,是 Murray 河拐了一个九十度弯的地方,原以为有什么名堂的,结果不其然。到河边去看看,那河岸被铁栅栏拦住了,说是河岸有坍塌之险。滑稽的是,河边公园里有一个标着陆克文的 Nation Building - Economic Stimulus Plan 的厕所。这是从铁栅栏缝隙之中拍的 Murray 河 Jervois 渡口,南澳这一带的渡口都是免费的:
![](http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/45431/2580734230101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8291) 在 Tailem Bend 没找着午饭,只好到下一站 Murray Bridge,因桥而得名的城。城里河边的公园还不错:
![](http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/45928/2291334650101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8292) 横着再来一张:
![](http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/41641/2453778550101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8293) 发大水时这水位可够高的,这整个河边公园都会在水底了:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/36830/2667576010101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8296) 淡季,这游船歇着呢:
![](http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/47519/2511062310101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8298) 给这个城名字的桥,两座,大点的是铁路桥:
![](http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/44429/2582457220101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8300) 过了 Murray Bridge,freeway 翻山到 Adelaide, 从城南的 Cross Rd 直抵海边的 Glenelg, 著名的 Glenelg Tram:
![](http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/45292/2965003660101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8304) Glenelg Jetty Rd 海边:
![](http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/46070/2991923260101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8305)
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/18246/2764498150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8306)
![](http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/44783/2449267160101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8308)
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/44484/2189042110101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8312) 电车的 Glenelg 终点站:
![](http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/47359/2535054290101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8315) 咱们住的 Seawall Apartemnts,右边楼下的那一套:
![](http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/45656/2165177460101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7910) 订的是两卧室的,check-in 时给升级为三卧室的了,不过多的一个卧室根本用不上,这是主卧室:
![](http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/19564/2877235220101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8318) 二号卧室:
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/44744/2635818150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8320) 主厅,二号卧室和大门之间还有一个厅:
![](http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/44280/2475500330101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7912) 从二号卧室能看到门外的海:
![](http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/21655/2307088610101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7913) 厨房:
![](http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/3584/2289304470101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7914) 主人弄了个海景园,大门是鲨鱼的大口:
![](http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/46556/2039704200101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7916) 另一个角度看住的房子——小船上墙:
![](http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/45521/2708717750101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8324) 第四天, 从 Glenelg 沿海边一直开到 Port Adelaide,这海景房还真不少,天然条件优越。这是个被搬了家的灯塔:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/45268/2844180580101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8329) 能升起的桥(?):
![](http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/32698/2515742040101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8330) 这水泥厂让咱远远地一猜一个准:
![](http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/46578/2422051300101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8331) tug boat(水位太低,只能看到上半部):
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/46086/2001496530101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8332) 不知名的建筑:
![](http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/47328/2411358270101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8335) 从 Port Adelaide 开到 CBD。以前看介绍澳州铁路的片子,说 Adelaide 的火车站很气派,到跟前才记起,早就改成赌场了:
![](http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/32370/2279158230101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8336) 唐人街前一掠而过:
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/46982/2337042360101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8338) 从 Mt Lofty 山顶看 Adelaide 城区:
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/44292/2108022220101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7953) 中午到了 Hahndorf,东郊 Adelaide Hills 的德国城, 进了 Hahndorf Inn Hotel 的餐馆:
![](http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/26328/2137477860101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7957) 来了份 A Taste of Germany Platter,四根灌肠(Bockwurst, Weisswurst, Cheese Kransky and Vienna),一块大排(Pork Kassler Chop),一个猪蹄(Pork Knuckles),外加土豆,两个 pretzel:
![](http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/37522/2293003700101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8342) 饭后逛街,这是商店橱窗:
![](http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/46809/2019118440101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8343) 老店:
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/46324/2344356100101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8346) 这是刚才吃饭的地方:
![](http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/46486/2653993330101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8348) 回城途中,下了 freeway 去看看不钻山洞的老一号公路,一段路开下来,只见到两辆车,这 Eagle on the Hill 也是一片一片静悄悄:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/45158/2260516880101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8349) 回到 CBD,这回下来走了走:
![](http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/14373/2729978110101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8357)
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/47924/2181835770101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8358) 新一点的电车:
![](http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/44216/2885665530101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8035) 第五天,离开了 Adelaide,去南边号称南澳的后院的 Victor Harbor。还是沿着海边走,走着走着,一路都没有指向 Victor Harbor 或 McLaren Vale 的路标,咱可不想去袋鼠岛,看到一条大点的路就左转了,正巧,这路直通 McLaren Vale,南澳的一个酒都。穿城而过,回头上了去 Victor Harbor 的路。Victor Harbor 所在的这个半岛是花岗岩,一个长长了栈桥通向海中的一个小岛:
![](http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/2643/2438859650101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8036) 栈桥上有铁轨,铁轨上跑马拉的“电车”(tram):
![](http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/45709/2669916570101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8043) 这小岛干脆就叫花岗岩岛:
![](http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/46491/2091379160101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8376) 小心,给小企鹅让道,不过白天没有小企鹅:
![](http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/46135/2532015740101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8049) 比起华山来还是小巫:
![](http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/41303/2772330140101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8053) 这有点人工堆起来的感觉,特别是边上不远就是防波堤:
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/45172/2761232010101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8379) 海水和花岗岩冲撞做成了牛奶:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/46310/2292540940101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8386) 从上向下看那条防波堤:
![](http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/813/2692471590101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8396) 天然石雕,像什么:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/34918/2029533960101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8395) 拉近:
![](http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/10387/2044741560101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8112) 想必是放生的鹌鹑:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/47270/2611723930101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8402) 远看那栈桥:
![](http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/25316/2221532430101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8403) 栈桥上马拉的 tram:
![](http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/47780/2440100800101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8407) 另一个角度看栈桥:
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/46365/2489305830101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8135) 觉得这马挺可怜的,墨尔本城里的马车是两到三匹马拉的,这里却是一匹马拉比马车大而重的 tram:
![](http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/33013/2061741250101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8415) 下一站是 Port Elliot,这一带海边都是别墅度假房,小城之间的界限并不明显,反正路边都有房子。Port Elliot 海边有个岬角,有不少人在那用望远镜向海里看,咱也拿出望远镜来看,没看出什么名堂,鲸鱼?倒是左手边这个小海湾挺美的,夏天一定是个游泳的好去处:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/44692/2343752360101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8417) 再下一站是 Hindmarsh 岛,一口气开到岛东南角, Murray 河的入海口就在此地:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/41374/2288197680101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8425) 去年复活节到澳州的屋顶的时候,在 Murray 河的源头附近走过,这回到了入海口,算是走遍了的澳州第一大河。不过这入海口一点也不壮观,水量太小,入海口只是沙坝上靠人工维持的一个缺口,和维州的 Lake Entrance 那里类似,远远望去,只能是通过缺口看见外海的浪花,缺口右侧沙滩及附近的浅水里还有一群海豹(照片上的小黑点):
![](http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/32271/2817855900101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8150) 渺无人烟(左边有条挖沙船不在镜头里):
![](http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/15237/2464141800101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8426) 沙滩上有不少这种像是植物纤维缠成的圆球,不知道是什么东西:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/47636/2118950810101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8428) 找了个还没分家的贝壳,立起来留个影:
![](http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/21376/2883406250101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8430) 路到尽头:
![](http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/43861/2105014470101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8431) 从 Murray 河河口回到连接 Hindmarsh 岛和 Goolwa 镇的桥下,从这个角度看这桥,还挺优美的。别小瞧这座桥,当年报章电台上可为它热闹过一番,Wikipedia 里有这个桥,
Hindmarsh Island bridge controversy:
![](http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/38469/2579574580101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8435) 现在这里一片宁静,桥上的交通流量很小,水里连波浪也是很小:
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/44360/2745835180101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8439) 船上带酒桶?
![](http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/46987/2397951380101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8180) 离开 Goolwa,天色渐晚,安排行程时,选择了在 Murray Bridge 过夜而不是回 Adelaide,这样明天回墨尔本就可少开点路,也避开了 Adelaide 早上的高峰。 到达 Balcony on Sixth 旅馆时已是五点,老板到悉尼去了,让她的老妈等着咱们。这是个城中心的老房子:
![](http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/46037/2818215670101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8181) 公共饭厅,早餐是免费的:
![](http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/44240/2295787260101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8184) 住这里冲的是他们的四柱老床,可这个房间不在有阳台的那边,里面黑古隆冬的,浴室也很旧:
![](http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/44915/2421144420101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8446) 问老板娘的老妈这房间怎么没有招牌上的 balcony,结果她打电话去请示了一下她女儿,给换了一个连着阳台的房间,四柱床错过了,但浴室是刚刚装修过的,瓷砖的边缝还没封好,有失有得:
![](http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/47277/2134633150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8185) 当成招牌的阳台,这是次日早晨拍的,背景是大雾:
![](http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/20691/2743531670101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8186) 只住一夜,这阳台并没有用上:
![](http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/29291/2299566210101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8447) 上路回家了,大雾,这一带是平原,雾得好像更厉害,好在车少,过 Keith 之前出了雾区。 Keith 的 Land Rover on the pole:
![](http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/47766/2466207000101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8452) 原以为 Bordertown 有点什么的,路过时特地拐进城转了一圈,可相机一直闲着,直到维州的 Nhill 才开工。去年春天到这里来过,一眼就发现这面包房变了,可又想不出哪变了:
![](http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/46487/2260562610101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(6575) 回家后翻出老照片,换主了?
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/32372/2593944710101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8455) 路过 Pink Lake,这颜色淡了一下就看出来了:
![](http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/45788/2694942660101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(6566) 去年九月拍的 Pink Lake:
![](http://inlinethumb36.webshots.com/15203/2124979370101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8457) 进 Horsham,开饭!饭后,在城中的 Wimmera 河边转转:
![](http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/39391/2912311520101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8458) 有水就有好景:
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/43014/2321005760101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8459) 河对岸的水景房:
![](http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/47250/2603097330101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8460) 回墨尔本之前停车休息的最后一站,Ararat,这个小公园是咱们每次经过 Ararat 的必停之地:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/47262/2249194880101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
五点半多,开到了西门桥的西头,车速一下子从100降至20以下,像蜗牛一样爬过了西门桥,到家已是七点……
Thu Jul 22 15:41:43 EST 2010
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