圈外闲人2013-10-19 23:16:34

巴黎的历史轴(Axe historique)从市中心向西延伸,包括一系列的古迹、建筑物和街道,也被称为凯旋之道(Voie Triomphale)。

为了便于狩猎,路易十四建了一条轴线,从卢浮宫(Musée du Louvre的方形广场出发,穿过杜丽乐花园(le jardin des Tuileries),直至圣日尔曼城堡(Chateau de Saint Germain)。这条轴线在十八世纪又被加入了两个新亮点:路易十五时代的协和广场和路易十六时代的香榭丽舍大街。1806年,拿破仑一世又在这条轴线上加上了两个拱形门:星形广场上的大凯旋门(Arc de Triomphe和杜乐丽花园入口处的小凯旋门(l'Arc du Carrousel)。一九五几年,轴线沿着大军团大街再次向西延伸,通过巴黎的城市边界到达拉德芳斯。1989年,20世纪现代版本的新凯旋门(La Grande Arche de la Défense)竣工,完成了从小凯旋门,到大凯旋门,再到新凯旋门的旅游热线。

凡尔赛宫(Chateau de Versailles)是历史轴之外的,位于法国巴黎西南郊外。凡尔赛宫作为法国宫廷长达107年(1682-1789),上次带着儿子来时就看得眼花缭乱,我对女儿说这是欧洲最漂亮的皇宫。

站在大门外就看到金碧辉煌了。

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大理石庭院在凡尔赛宫的正面入口,是一个三面围合的小广场。中央的建筑原为路易十三的狩猎行宫,路易十四时加以改造,保留原来的红砖墙面,并增加大理石雕塑和镀金装饰。

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室内屋顶上到处都是富丽堂皇的油画。

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我觉得最有霸气的是拿破仑一世的加冕大典,是法国画家雅克·路易·大卫创作的一幅油画,画面描绘了1804122日在巴黎圣母院隆重举行的国王加冕仪式。另一幅相似的油画被陈列在卢浮宫,你能看出两幅画的不同吗?

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不同之处是画面中一位女眷的着装色彩,凡尔赛宫那幅着白纱,卢浮宫那幅着红纱。

左边是国王的床,右边是王后的床,它们是在不同的房间。

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皇宫剧院

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我最喜欢的是皇家花园,艳丽而又次序井然。花园面积为100公顷,以海神喷泉为中心,主楼北部有拉冬娜喷泉,主楼南部有桔园和温室。花园内有1400个喷泉,以及一条长1.6公里的十字形人工大运河。路易十四时期曾在运河上安排帆船进行海战表演,或布置贡多拉和船夫,模仿威尼斯的运河风光。花园内还有森林、花径、温室、柱廊、神庙、村庄、动物园和众多散布的大理石雕像。

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卢浮宫是巴黎历史轴的起点,是世界上最古老、最庞大、最著名的博物馆之一。卢浮宫始建于1204年,原是法国的王宫,居住过50位国王和王后。卢浮宫展出的艺术收藏达3.5万件,根据其来源地和种类分别在六大展馆中展出,即东方艺术馆、古希腊及古罗马艺术馆、古埃及艺术馆、珍宝馆、绘画馆及雕塑馆。其中绘画馆展品最多,占地面积最大。卢浮宫区有198个展览大厅,最大的大厅长205米。

我们上次来的时候用了一天的时间,根本无法欣赏全部的稀世珍品。

这一次只有两个小时的参观时间,怎么办呢?

导游自有妙计,重点参观卢浮宫三宝:爱神维纳斯雕像、胜利女神像和达芬奇的蒙娜丽莎画像。在蒙娜丽莎迷人的微笑前,挤满了世界各地的慕名者,据说是个盗贼肆无忌惮偷钱包的地方。

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这是《达芬奇密码》电影开头一晃而过的肖像,是达芬奇画的费隆妮叶夫人(La belle ferronnière),并没有许多人观摩,于是可以慢慢地欣赏。

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当然我们只有两个小时,然后就要说拜拜了。

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卢浮宫前的金字塔形玻璃入口,是华人建筑大师贝聿铭设计,也算是卢浮宫的一景。

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小凯旋门是为庆祝拿破仑一世的战争胜利而建造的,在红、白大理石圆柱之间是三个圆拱门,装饰奢华。门顶端的四匹骏马是从意大利圣马可教堂搬来的镀金奔马,原物已于1815年归还给意大利,现在门上的骏马是复制品。青铜战马边上是镀金的和平与胜利女神。

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接着,我们在香榭丽舍大街吃了午饭。

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大凯旋门在香榭丽舍大街的西北端,是拿破仑一世为纪念战胜奥地利而建造的。上一次去时可以直接走到大凯旋门,但是现在需要通过地道才能走近它。因为地道里排着长长的队伍,我们只好原路退回来,带着距离照几张相片了。大凯旋门上有电梯和楼梯,可以登到檐口上眺望,这一次算是无缘了。

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19世纪中叶,环绕大凯旋门一周修建了圆形广场及12条放射状道路,广场由此得名为星形广场,现改名为戴高乐广场。

我们又绕道去了埃菲尔铁塔,这座地标于1889年建成,位于巴黎的战神广场,总高324米。我们去的时候正好碰上示威游行,有幸得到了警察的护航。

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然后吃了晚饭,回旅馆休息。本来这一天就这么结束了,结果女儿贪玩,沿着旅馆外的露天电梯一路上去,竟然发现了另一个洞天。那里是达拉德芳斯金融商业区,拥有巴黎最多的摩天大楼,我们为黄昏中现代化的美景而痴迷,惊叹于坐着许多游人的方形建筑。

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站在历史轴的终端,我们并不知道这就是新凯旋门,这可真叫做有眼不识泰山。后来听了团友的介绍,才知道这是巴黎历史轴西端的新凯旋门。1989715日(前一日为法国大革命200周年纪念日),在它的顶层举行了最高级首脑会议。乘坐新凯旋门的观光电梯上去,可以享受到巴黎的远景,远远地看到位于历史轴中端的大凯旋门。

下面是团友赠送的两张照片,第二天一大早,她再次上了露天电梯,赶拍了晨曦中的新凯旋门与大凯旋门。

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我就在这里坐享其成了,再一次欣赏壮观的巴黎历史轴!

女儿日记

17 day trip – day 16

Versailles: four out of five

Versailles is a French palace. The kings Louie the 14th, Louie the 15th, and Louie the 16th lived in there. There is a saying about it: Louie the 14th built it, Louie the 15th enjoyed it, and Louie the 16th paid the bill with his life. The palace is very big and has a lot of frescos. There are many fancy rooms. My favorite spot is the gardens. It's a very formal, French garden, and is beautiful. It's full of the color green. There are multiple grassy areas, all surrounded by a double layer of hedges. In between the hedges are flowers. In the paths, there are a ton of ant holes. In fact, one place even had a kind of "road" for the ants! All of the ants traveled on it. I saw two fountains and one pond. I wanted to go see the mirror lakes, but there wasn't enough time.

Louvre: three out of five

I also saw the Louvre, a famous museum. The three highlights there are the two statues Venus and Winged Victory and the Mona Lisa. In my opinion, the Mona Lisa actually isn't too impressive. It's comparatively small, especially if viewed from a distance. I think that the statues took more effort to do. After all, they are 3D. The Louvre also has Egyptian, Renaissance, and other art. Did you know that for Greco-Roman statues, straight nose statues are Greek, and curved nose ones are Roman? That's one way of classifying these types of statues. The entrance is very modern. Once you reach the hallway, you can see three glass pyramids on top of you. There is a staircase to the top floor, but the staircase is only supported on two ends! It's a spiral staircase, and it spirals around an elevator.

Dinner: five out of five

Another dinner rating? Why should I bother, if I ate at the exact same restaurant? This is because that this time, I ate different things. Out of the four courses, I ate all of them! (Of course, I didn't necessarily finish them all, but at least I consented to try.) The courses were spicy onion soup, fish-egg-brisket-thingy with creamy sauce, beef and mashed potatoes and salad, and ice cream. They all tasted very good. My favorite was the fish-egg thingy. Because of the sauce, I couldn't tell what it even was, but it still is my favorite. My mom says that it's egg, but I think it's fish.

This is my second to last review of this trip. Tomorrow, I'm going home!

ERommel2013-10-20 03:33:54
凡尔赛宫华丽壮观,谢谢分享
圈外闲人2013-10-20 04:53:12
墙上抓一把都是黄金*^ο^* 周末快乐!
阿方2013-10-20 14:46:18
最后一张,好像也有雾霾
圈外闲人2013-10-20 17:55:18
哈哈,这双慧眼厉害!
大臭臭2013-10-21 14:12:17
你的游记写的很全面哦。
涯涯2013-10-21 18:10:17
华丽!
圈外闲人2013-10-22 03:39:15
尽量多了解一些去过的地方 :)
圈外闲人2013-10-22 03:39:56
这是对巴黎的最好概括!